For millennia the spiritual home of the Hindus is this place where the Ganges River makes a big, long arcing turn, carving the riverbed into the sandstone bluffs on the edge of Varanasi, a city of 3.5 million deeply religious people in Uttar Pradesh.

It is so important that at any given time throughout the year there can be as many as 8 million pilgrims. Everyone comes for their own reason, but it’s important to understand that the Ganges River is viewed as the source of all life for Hindus, from the beginning to the end.

Some times of year are considered more auspicious than others. Some years are more auspicious than others, and when the astrology lines up, extremely important gatherings occur every 12 years such as what has happened over the past one month in conjunction with the Kumbh Mela festival. In fact, the 2025 festival was a Maha (Great) Kumbh Mela, and this occurs only every 144 years. It brought an astonishing 90 million pilgrims, the largest religious gathering on Earth!

An open air crematorium on the shores of the Ganges River.

Pilgrims bathe in the sacred river, ceremonies include processions on elephants, horses, and chariots. And the Naga Sadhus perform rituals with shining swords. 

The Naga Sadhus are not just spiritual seekers, but they are also warrior aesthetics. Historically, they were trying to protect Hinduism and it’s sacred spaces from invasions. Their martial spirit is evident today as they carry swords, Trident, and Spears during the Kumbh Mela processions, and they will on occasion bless pilgrims.

Here a young priest hosts a ceremony on the banks of the Ganges, worshiping the arrival of the early morning sun, as it arises above the hill beyond the distant riverbank. The women in the fourth photograph below her lighting candles, and offering worship to the sun.

A private concert in the home of a world famous sitar player, representing 11 generations over the past 500 years composing, recording, and performing classical Indian music. Accompanied by a traditional performance dance.

It’s not all religion! Always time for a little treat.